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With many thanks,
In the fight against the spread of Coronavirus we will remain temporarily closed in line with Government guidelines until further notice. Our live chat is open 24/7. Stay safe.
We would like to thank all our customers for your continued support and reviews we wish you all well, please stay alert and we look forward to seeing you all soon.
With many thanks,
Burlingham is steeped in history dating back to 1876 coach building in Norfolk and Huddersfield.
It moved to Blackpool in 1928 onto Bloomfield Road and Bond Street. Blackpool was an ideal place to coach build with the advantages of highly seasonal trade.
General Coachbuilding was the initial purpose of Mr Burlingham’s business but in the early 1930’s he built a number of caravans special order. A production example was exhibited at the 1934 Olympia Motor Show.
By the second half of the decade he was producing a range of extremely elegant models named after the British Lakes.
By 1938 the manufacturing was based in Brook Street, Preston and a display site at the nearby Garstang By Pass where the present site in located today.
Herbet Victor Burlingham continued his interest in caravans and still owned the first caravan he built up to his death in 1959 at age 82. Still to this date nobody knows where this caravan and another three prized Burlingham Caravans went.
You can see still a Burlingham Langdale Caravan at the Lakeland Museum.
https://www.lakelandmotormuseum.co.uk/…/c1948-burlingham-la…
We wish you all well, please stay safe and we look forward to seeing you all soon
We would like to thank all our customers for your continued support and reviews.
What does a Leisure Battery do?
Leisure batteries are needed for the running of your caravan or motorhomes 12v electrics. This includes internal lights, controlling mains appliances (although most appliances work with 240v hook up, they are normally controlled by a 12v controller), 12v sockets and Motormovers!
Do I need a Leisure Battery if I am plugged into mains electric?
Although modern caravans have 12v chargers in the caravans, the secondary function of a leisure battery, aside from powering appliances, is to correct any irregularities in the power supply, keeping you and your appliances safe. Almost all UK manufactures advise that you should have a battery in connected when a charger is on. If not this can burnout the charger and have a very negative effect on your caravan.
Is there a difference between Car Batteries and a Leisure Battery?
Yes there is a very big difference between a car battery and a leisure battery as they both do very different jobs. A car battery is designed to provide a burst of energy to start the engine when required, whereas a leisure battery will release a lower level of energy over a prolonged period of time in order to power appliances. Think if you leave your lights on your car for half an hour to an hour, the battery would be dead. Not very practical for a caravan that uses so much 12v power.
What Size battery do I need?
Do use your caravan away from mains electric? Do you use a Motor-mover? are you always connected to mains electric? The size of battery you need really depends on how you use it.
Considering the increased number of electronic gadgets and improved technology used in all aspects of our lives nowadays, the National Caravan Council (NCC) has introduced a Verified Leisure Battery Scheme to give caravan and motorhome owners peace of mind when purchasing a new leisure battery.
The NCC categories batteries into 3 Classes
Category A is for batteries with a higher storage capacity for people who frequently use their touring caravan or motorhome away from an electrical hook-up:
If you are using your caravan for rallying and do not use an electric hook up, a Class-A battery is the battery for you. This is110amp and above. Although a lot of people needing this sort of battery, will get a solar panel fitted.
Category B batteries are aimed at those who frequently use sites with hook-up facilities, but require a greater battery capacity to operate devices such as motor movers:
If you use your caravan on sites but sometimes on a site without electric for a night or have a motor mover that is used, a Class-B battery will do the job for you. This is normally 90amp to 110amp.
Category C batteries are for users that require a lower capacity battery to cover basic operation of their habitation equipment for short periods away from an electrical hook-up:
So in short, if you are using your caravan on a seasonal pitch or always use mains electric and do not have a motor mover, a Class-C battery will be fine. This is normally 75amp to 86amp
How to tell if a battery is NCC approved?
You cannot simply judge a battery by its name, as all manufacturers make a range of batteries of different capacity, durability and price to suit myriad applications. Manufacturers of verified batteries are entitled and encouraged to display the NCC classification on them at the point of sale.
What batteries do we sell at Burlingham Caravans?
Burlinghams stock Numax batteries from 75amp to 105amp and can order larger sizes! All Numax Class-B batteries come with a 3 year guarantee and Numax Class-C come with 2 years!
Ask in-store if you are unsure what battery you need!
Excellent insulation and modern heating systems mean that caravanning is a year-round activity, with many sites as busy at Christmas and New Year as they are in mid-summer. Check out these handy tips to stay comfortable on site, no matter what the temperature is outside.
Many caravan sites have extended their opening season or remain open all year round, where you can enjoy heated toilet/shower blocks, laundry rooms, mains electric hook ups and often hardstanding pitches.
With the right preparation, caravanning can be enjoyed all year round, and there is something quite special about the silence of a snow-covered Certificated Location when snug inside a caravan!
Butane is ineffective as temperatures fall to around freezing (0*C) so the winter caravanner should switch to propane. Most modern appliances work equally well on butane or propane, so all that is required is a change of regulator. Some equipment with high off-take rates, like central heating systems, will only work effectively on propane. If it is more convenient, propane can be used all year round – there is no need to switch back to butane for the summer.
In below-zero conditions, your outside water container may well partially freeze over so you will need a second container inside the caravan you can transfer your water pump to.
Many caravans now incorporate on-board water tanks – or have the capacity to have them retro-fitted – so check your handbook to see if this applies to your model.
There are currently no ‘anti-freeze’ additives on the market that are recommended for use in fresh water supplies.
To prevent freezing of the waste tanks or toilet, add car-type anti-freeze. Propylene glycol is most suitable, being less toxic, but it can be difficult to find.
Most caravans now have balanced flue space heaters, which should be safe to leave on all night. However, there is a very small risk of wind-blown rubbish or snow blocking the flue and creating problems and so we don’t recommend you use these.
LPG heaters without flues must not be left on if all the occupants are sleeping (day or night). If hooking-up to mains, a thermostatically controlled fan heater (1 kW max. is should prevent the interior temperature falling below a certain level.
An increasing number of caravans now have central heating systems, which for prolonged winter caravanning, are ideal. Most systems can be added to a caravan but must be professionally installed for safety.
Water heaters are unlikely to freeze whilst the caravan is occupied, but for travelling in near zero conditions and if the caravan is left unoccupied for any length of time, it must be drained down to prevent frost damage.
For regular winter caravanners, a four-wheel drive car or all-terrain vehicle is well worth considering. Mud and Snow tyres often improve traction and can be used all year round. For very slippery sites, snow chains might be needed. For more advice, consult our guide on buying a towcar.
(article courtesy of the Caravan Club)
Coupling a caravan to a car is quite simple if you follow our simple procedure, you’ll get it right every time!
Always work carefully, safely and methodically. Use the same routine every time you hitch up. Always double check and do not rush.
Before starting the manoeuvre, make sure that both the caravan and the towcar are under control with the car handbrake applied and the caravan hitch brake on.
Always read the manufacturer’s instructions before coupling for the first time and if in doubt ask your dealer.
The driver should always check that coupling has been completed successfully.
(courtesy: The Caravan Club)
Caravan vents should be left uncovered to provide adequate air circulation inside the caravan, however if your caravan is left in an exposed or salty location, the vents on the side of the prevailing wind can be closed off for winter. If you have regular access to your caravan you could place some moisture absorbing crystals (available in our shop) in cupboards, under beds, etc to reduce the risk of condensation, but these do require frequent changing. You could also put a low wattage heater in your caravan to minimise the damp and condensation. If possible remove the soft furnishings and store in a warm, dry place at home.
Walls and ceilings should be wiped over with a mild anti-bacterial solution eg. Dettox or something similar. Cupboards should be emptied, cleaned and vacuumed out. Small doors can be left ajar to assist ventilation, but larger doors should be closed as they can warp.
1. Caravan weight to car kerb weight ratio
A driver with extensive towing experience can tow a caravan of up to 100% of the kerb weight of the tow car. Ideally the ratio of below MTPLM to Tow Car Kerb Weight of less than 85% should still be maintained. A ratio of MTPLM to Tow Car Kerb Weight of greater than 100% is not recommended even if the car manufacturer states a higher limit in their data. This is not a legal limitation but guidance based upon industry experience and a driver may legally tow a trailer up to the limit stated by the tow car manufactuter.
A driver with little or no towing experience should limit the MTPLM to Tow Car Kerb Weight ratio to less than 85%. This is not a legal limitation but guidance based upon industry experience. Any such result is highlighted in red in the summary table above. Please note: In some circumstances it is possible for the caravan manufacturer to reduce the MTPLM of the caravan to allow for a greater choice of tow car. This will have a direct effect on the user payload.
2. Gross Train Weight
The gross train weight is the sum of the gross vehicle weight of the tow car and the MTPLM of the caravan. For drivers that passed their driving test after 1st January 1997 this must not exceed 3500Kg unless they have passed an additional test to gain a category B+E endorsement on their licence.
3. Noseweights
The caravan nose weight is the downwards force on the car’s towball and it varies depending upon how the caravan is loaded.
The results given in the summary table are:
The ratio of 5% MTPLM to Tow Car Maximum Tow Bar Load
For stable towing the caravan’s nose weight should ideally be around 7% of its MTPLM however it is acceptable for it to be little higher and it may drop as low as 5%. In all cases the following limits must not be exceeded:
The car manufacturers’ maximum tow bar load
The caravan coupling hitch limit (usually stamped on the hitch) The tow bar manufacturers’ limit
4. MTPLM to Gross Trailer Weight Braked:
This is the ratio of the MTPLM to the Gross Trailer Weight Braked, expressed as a percentage. It is illegal to tow a caravan where this ratio is greater than 100%. It is good practice to leave some weight in reserve if possible, hence any value of between 85% and 100% is highlighted as a caution.
5. Definitions: Car
Kerb weight
Car manufacturers’ definitions vary but in general terms it is the weight of the car in working order (with fuel and fluids) but without any occupants or luggage
Gross vehicle weight
The maximum allowable weight of the car when fully loaded. When towing, this will include the noseweight of the caravan.
Towing load limit
The maximum weight of a braked trailer that the car is allowed to tow.
Certain car manufacturers specify a range of maximum towing limits for certain models. This may depend on the number of passengers. This may mean that the actual maximum towing limit for your actual car is less than that shown above in some operating conditions. It’s important that the towing capacity figure that should be used for your car is that which is stamped on the Vehicle Identification Number Plate, (VIN Plate).
Noseweight limit
The maximum weight (down force) that may be exerted on the towball when a towbar is fitted.
Caravan
MTPLM
Maximum Technical Permissible Laden Mass – This is the maximum weight the caravan can be loaded to and legally be taken on the road.
MRO
Mass in Running Order – From 2011 this is the weight of the caravan as it leaves the factory plus an allowance for gas, water, fluids and the electric hook up cable. Prior to 2011 some or all of these items may not have been included.
Mass of Optional Equipment
The fitting of after-market options will reduce the payload available for other items – e.g. a mover by approx. 35kg (70kg where two are fitted on a twin axle caravan)
The driver must ensure that: The car’s Gross Vehicle Weight is not exceeded, the caravan’s MTPLM is not exceeded, the combined actual laden weight of the car and caravan does not exceed the car’s Gross Train Weight.
User Payload
The total weight allowable for after-market optional equipment and for users personal effects. This is usually the difference between the MTPLM and the MRO.
Noseweight
The down force exerted by the caravan on the towball of the car.
6. Limitations:
If the caravan body length exceeds 7m long then it can only be towed by a towing vehicle with a gross weight greater than 3,500 kg. This excludes all cars and light vans.
Disclaimer
The data on which this advice is based is obtained from manufacturers’ published data and credible industry data suppliers and is based on UK models only with standard specification with no extra equipment fitted. While every reasonable precaution has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the data, the National Caravan Council Ltd cannot accept any responsibility for the consequences of any errors or omissions which may occur.
The information supplied herewith is provided and intended as a guide only. The only towing capacity figure/Gross Train Weight figure that should be used for your car is that which is stamped on the Vehicle Identification Number Plate, VIN Plate. The VIN plate can usually be found under the bonnet or on a door pillar and details of the location will be in the owner’s handbook. The plate will be either an alloy plate riveted to the body or a sticker. The VIN plate will display either 3 or 4 sets of weights. It is these weights that the authorities (Police) use to determine whether your vehicle is over-laden.
Note: Certain performance, hybrid and city-car models or similar variants of standard models are not homologated to tow, this means that the vehicle manufacturer has deemed that the model is unsuitable for use as a tow vehicle. With this type of vehicle the towing capacity will equate to zero or a gross train weight will not be displayed or will be the same as the Gross Vehicle Weight.
How to keep your caravan safe and protect your investment.
Your caravan is a road vehicle so you are legally obliged to keep it roadworthy. The best way to do this is to have it serviced annually. The service will cover running gear, brakes, and lights.
The service will also include the habitation side of the caravan. The water, gas, electrical and heating systems will all be checked and maintained. The dealer who does the service should also check for any damp or leaks in the basic structure of your caravan.
Some people enjoy their caravans all year round. However, if you decide to store your caravan during the winter months, it’s worth taking the time to do a few jobs before leaving it.
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